Sunday, April 29, 2012

Double faced cape - details

So this is the pattern of my double faced cape.

M5913

and this is the technical view

Line Art

I made view C.
You can see why I chose this one. There only a few seams.
I also eliminated the centre back seam, to cut down the work a little bit.



As lovely as that red is, it won't come out right on the pictures. I hope you get the idea though.

I bought the buttons before I started sewing the cape and I hadn't really decided if I would use red on red, but when I finished, I knew I had to sew red on grey and vice versa.


Aren't these red ones cute? They look like glass.



Tip! If you decide to make a double faced garment, make sure to pick buttons of the same size for both sides!
And this is how they are sewn.



As you can see, I made bound button holes.
I had never made them before, either by machine or hand.
They are not hard to make, but they do take time and your full attention.

This is how they look on red


and on grey


Grey hides things easier as you can see.

Back darts.



Can you see them? 
That was the point! To make them invisible!

Collar




Side seams



The red one is sewn by machine and the grey by hand.

Bell loops



The only con is that, if I want to wear the cape from  the other side,
 I have to take the belt off and pass it through all the 4 belts openings and the loop.


And finally the hemming.
All sewn by hand.


I'll post a couple of tutorials on how to get these results.

See you around
Maria









Saturday, April 28, 2012

Double faced cape = 2 capes!

   I came across this gorgeous fabric about a year and a half ago. I bought a couple of meters of it, not having a clue what to do with it! This was the first time I saw double faced wool in two different colours. One side red, one side grey. I loved both colours and I had to make something using both of them. Double faced means that the garment has to look perfect on both sides. This may be easier if you use two fabrics, but how do you do it with one? I searched and searched on books and the web, but I was not able to find any instructions or suggestions. So I came up with my own!
   I had to conceal each and every seam. That means that more than half of the garment is sewn by hand... so the less seams the better! I came across this pattern by McCall's and I though it would be perfect. Only a few seams and a preview in red to get the full idea!

M5913

I usually don't like capes, but the belt in this one makes all the difference. I ordered the pattern and after a few months Burda had some cape patterns too, but I chose to stick to this one. 
Now I'm the pride owner of two capes, a grey and a red one! 



Each side gives a hint of what's hidden to the other side, so I used grey buttons on red and red on grey to exaggerate the look. I like so much that the other side shows when I move my arms. 


I fitted my right out the envelope. I didn't bother making a muslin, because a cape it's meant to be loose, so I didn't expect any fitting issues.



This project took me a lot of time to complete. Firstly I had to interrupt it, to start working on my graduation dress, which I'll post soon. Then I needed something easier that didn't involve hand sewing and mean while life was taking over my sewing, so after a few months, here it is! Thankfully spring weather was kind enough to allow a couple of cold days and give me the chance to wear it! It feels lovely. The wool is so warm. I only felt cold to my arms, elbow down, but I won't consider this a con. 



This project could also be called, how to make a really simple pattern the most difficult project ever!
Details really mattered here. So slow and precise hand sewing was in order. 
Tomorrow I'll show you all the details and I think I'll post a couple of tutorials too, on how to work with such a double faced fabric.

See you around
Maria










Monday, April 23, 2012

Red poppies white poppies

    Hello everybody! I hope you had a great Easter. You know according to the tradition poppies get their red colour on the days of Easter to symbolise the blood of Jesus. So I guess this was the right time to sew a poppies print fabric! 
   I got this satin silk as a remnant. It was in a basket marked as "silk for scarves". It was quite cheap so I thought I could squeeze a top out of it. I'm glad I got it because I could really get a top from it. It was enough for almost all of it! I run out for half of the facings, but I used white silk to make them and since I'm the only one knowing it's there, it worked just fine!


I used pattern 5661 from McCall's, view D.

M5661

I know the gathers don't really show on a print, but the do add an interesting flare to the fitting.


I didn't make a muslin and I'm glad it fits me right out the envelope.
I probably should have made one, for practice reasons, since this a perfect fit pattern,
that has extra instructions on how to make all the fitting adjustments.
I'm usually lucky with tops and I really needed something "quick" to sew, for emotional reasons!


I love the way it fits. 
It's loose, yet waist defined. 
You know how much I love a defined waist on garments.


The back has 5 buttons. 
I was really glad to find out that I only have to undo the upper one to get into the top!


I was also really happy to find these cute transparent buttons in my stash.
Yey for having a stash!
I'm telling you people, don't ever through away any kind of garment or accessory, without
firstly taking off what ever may be used again.
I believe these buttons came from an old cardigan of mine. 


I used french seams, cause I love a tidy inside.
The hem is hand sewn.


Here's the gathering and you can also peak at the white facing.
I admit it took me a while to get how to make those gatherings.
Not because the pattern is any difficult, but because I just couldn't get it!
Happens to the best of us I guess!


Armpits neatly finished.


I used bias tape to finish the raw edges of the back facing, that carries the buttons and buttonholes.
Red would probably be more appropriate, but the partial white facing gave me an excuse for it! 


Front facing.
Raw edges are finished with bias tape.


Back facing.
I had enough fabric for the long part of the back facing but not all of it!



I also got to use my new button presser foot on these buttons and I have to say it's really good!

See you around
Maria






Monday, April 9, 2012

Burda 5/2012 preview

    So I'm looking through the preview and I'm thinking "OK I'm not going to buy this issue" and then "damn now I have to buy it!". At first I didn't see any patterns worth making, according to my style and taste of course, but then I changed my mind. Here's what caught my eye...

113C 0512 B


106A 0512 B106-052012-M


118 0512 B  119-052012-M
112A 0512 B112B 0512 B
112-052012-M



133V2 0512 B133-052012-M


Skirts and dresses, dresses and skirts! I know 5 patterns is a good reason to buy a magazine, but I wish there was more variety in the rest of the patterns.
Here's what I mean.

121B 0512 B110A 0512 B125 0512 B122B 0512 B122A 0512 B




101B 0512 B131 0512 B127B 0512 B101A 0512 B124 0512 B123 0512 B129 0512 B128 0512 B


Apart from the above there are a few more patterns a bit more interesting.

Simple but basic for beach or vacations
120 0512 B

115 0512 B114 0512 B
I don't like the elastic waist on the pink dress, but it's good for inspiration.

138 0512 B141 0512 B

105 0512 B107A 0512 B
What do you think?


See you around
Maria
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