Thursday, July 19, 2012

How to hem double faced wool

   This is the last of my tutorials about my double faced cape. Please read the previous ones to have a spherical view on the method I followed and this one will be a piece of cake, I promise!

   Let me remind you. This is how double faced wool looks from the side

I suggest you do the hemming last on your project, no matter what you pattern instructions says, because that's the only way I can think of, to have a neatly finished garment with fully enclosed seams.

So you already have basted your pattern pieces at double the seam allowance distance

and you have separated the two fabric layers up to the basting thread, be careful not to go any further.

Now all you have to do is fold inwards both fabrics (grey and red) until their edges meet the basting thread.
Press, using a pressing cloth and cut half width the seam allowance, as you did when you prepared a basic seam. You don't have to check the width of the seam allowances, as long as your basting is at double distance the seam allowance your patterns suggests or you chose to use. By folding the edges inwards you are folding the seam allowance.

That was all! Now sew, catching both the grey and red fabric with the needle, creating a smooth edge.
When reaching a corner try to make a pointy edge (if your pattern calls for one) and cut any excess fabric you have to fold inwards, to avoid bulk.

Press and run to the mirror to admire your garment on! Told you it was easy!

Feel free to contact me if you need help.

See you around

Tuesday, July 17, 2012

Crafty Daddy

     Sometimes there comes a moment when your whole sewing life passes by your eyes. When you see everything you've ever made and piles of fabric for the dresses you never got to sew. Ok let me explain. It's been too long since I last made anything. I miss sewing. I have to many plans, but lately I was too busy and traveled a lot, so sewing was on the hold.
     Yesterday I decided to start on a new dress. I've had the fabric and lace trim since last year. There's always a lining I can use, appropriate for summer dresses and I did buy a zip last week. So I'm all ready to go! I've cut my fabric, cut my lining, pinned the darts, sewn the darts, pinned the side seams, I' m sewing, sewing, clap... the needle has jammed the fabric in the tiny whole beneath it, between the feed dogs, I can see loops of thread where they shouldn't be. I tried to manually reverse the needle up but nothing is moving. The balance wheel turns alright, but nothing moves, not the feeding dogs, not the needle bar. Deap breath Maria, calm down. I unplug the machine and unjam the fabric, cut the thread loops, open the bobin case part, take the needle completely off, it's broken. So far so good, but still the balance wheel is turning and nothing else moves and I can't find the second half of the broken needle.
    Another deep breath. I take the little screw driver, that came with the machine and try to open it and see what I'll find in there. The missing needle part, something broken that gives move from the balance weel to the feed dogs and needle bar?... that damn screw is too tight.
    My dad just woke up from his siesta, I give him a few moments and I call for help. He unscrewed that stubborn screw so easily. Why does that always has to happen? He asked me what was going on. I was already thinking that if my machine broke again, I wouldn't take it this time. I would buy a new one. I can't be without a sewing machine, apart from refusing to imagine my self without sewing, look at all the money I've spent on fabric, still unsewn!
    I explained to my dad what was wrong. He slowly went to the other room, put this glasses on and took a close look to my machine. Took a screwdriver and tightened a screw, with a weird shape. That was it! It's been flowing like a river ever since! The crisis went over fast! Thanks dad!

See you around

Monday, July 16, 2012


    Being able to sew for oneself is an absolute pleasure. Being flattered about your talent to sew and make your friends jealous they can't have the awesome blouse you made for your self is even more awesome! What's a better thank you to a friend for all the good words, than a piece of your work? A friend of mine liked my Coffee Blouse so much I thought it would be only right to make her one too. 
    I couldn't find any similar fabric with an interesting print as mine has, so I chose this ombre satin, with shades of yellow and orange. This time I got to cut the front piece on the bias, as the pattern suggested and the results were more spectacular. The fitting and draping are lovely. 
This is me modelling the blouse before I gave it to my friend.

I'm so happy she liked it!
I suggested that she should wear it with white pants, then it will be sunset in Santorini!

Santorini sunset

See you around
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